Madurai Meenakshi Temple: THEN and NOW

The overwhelming experience of my recent visit to Madurai is one of the most memorable one. This was my third visit to Madurai, the first being purely a religious one, the second an unexpected quick visit and the third was a well-planned one with an intension to mainly study the architecture and to document photographically some unique sculptures. The Navaratri festivities, music, dance and drama performances at the temple made my visit more enchanting. Since ancient times temples have not been just religious centers but social and educational centers as well.  The huge corridors and long platforms alongside serve this purpose. Besides, they provide livelihood for small traders of flowers, coconuts and other pooja materials. The Meenakshi Sundareshwarar temple is one of the most visited temples of India. The temple has a brilliant structure and is a wonderful masterpiece created by skilled craftsmen. We visited the temple twice, one in the late evening on our arrival and the second on the next day. Change is the law of life and I was curious to see the changes in the activities around the temple. It was stunning, the change is enormous!! 

The colossal Gopuram- one has to struggle to get the complete view.

I remember my previous visit, when we entered the temple complex the colossal tower, massive pillars, life size sculptures bowled us over. We could photograph complete gopuram from a distance. But this time it was an unsuccessful attempt to capture the complete view of the temple gopuram. Many walls and fences have come up inside the temple where there were open spaces. 

Look at the condition of the designer pillars and lintels! nailed and used for hanging bananas, wooden and plastic items. The wall behind is fitted with shelves to store.

Absolute abuse of the sculptures! The two orphaned sculptures appear praying with folded hands to free them from suffocation!

Commerce is found everywhere in India and Meenakshi Amman temple complex is not an exception. But the extent of impact is worrisome. We entered from the eastern gate and wondered whether we were at the temple or in the market! The huge pillars and tall sculptures were not seen. They were hidden behind the series of displays and hangings. The number of shops had multiplied ten times. Permanent shops have come up in large numbers inside the temple complex. 

These pillars are carved all around but completely blocked by shop keepers.  

The space between the pillars has been occupied by traders. Temporary sheet roofs have been fixed by nailing the stone pillars. The beautiful carvings on pillars are completely eclipsed. Not just this, more horrifying sight welcomed at the entrance! One of the sculpture’s hands, neck, waist were used to tie metal wires from one end to another which was used to hang beads necklaces, bags, souvenirs!! 

Majestic sculpture behind bars!! Look at the right hand wrist tied with threads to support the hangings!

The beauty of the temple architecture and artistic sculptures, pillar carvings have been marred by indiscreet use of nails, bags, hangings, wires on pillars, sculptures and ceiling by shop keepers within the temple complex. The Pudhu Mantapam gate was locked and tailors and dress makers have occupied the entire space at the entrance and prevent visitors from entering. 

Pudhu Mantapam entrance blocked by dress makers. Beyond that blue gate lies invaluable architectural treasure. 

Further, many rare sculptures were oiled, smeared with sandal paste, turmeric and kumkum. I went in search of one of the rarest of the rare sculptures Vyaghra Vinayaki (female form of Ganesha having the face of an elephant and body of a tiger) which I had seen in my previous visit and mentioned in one of my posts.  This time I could locate it after a long struggle, as it was completely smeared with sandal and turmeric paste and covered by a cloth from neck to the bottom. No doubt, temples have religious significance. But protecting architectural heritage is equally significant. I feel devotees should not be allowed to use all the sculptures for this kind of worship. 

Rarest of the rare sculpture  Vyaghra Vinayaki in pitiable condition.

 Beautiful sculptures completely covered with oil, turmeric, sandal paste and kumkum. The fourth from left is the rare sculpture ' Sharabheshwara' ( having face and body of a lion with an elephant trunk- also called Yali).

The center of attraction in the temple complex is the Thousand Pillared Hall. The main row of pillars is well maintained. As we go to the left and right sides of the hall it is poorly lit or fully dark and mostly used as storing space. The security stops you from going further by saying nothing is there to see! Private guides go unmonitored when they touch, beat, tap on the sculptures carved on pillars. There were a few small shops in Madurai temple complex which sold pooja items. But today commercial activities have grown manifold to such an extent that the tourists are deprived of enjoying the rich architecture. 

Metal wires are tied to the grills of beautifully carved high beams which damage the carvings.

Why and how can we be so indifferent towards our historical heritage? It is disheartening to notice ignorant people who are unmindful that they are doing an irreparable damage to invaluable archaeological masterpieces. We are the custodians of our heritage and have the responsibility to preserve it for our future generations. It is the responsibility of the civil society to transfer that heritage to the next generation. 

Helpless sculpture stands as a mute spectator right in front of the protectors.

We can never create such magnificent monuments in our lifetime. Created thousands of years ago, such great treasure has been carefully preserved for us by our earlier generations. The very basic idea of temple and sanctity is fast changing in modern days. It is our country; it is our rich heritage, since time immemorial. It is our moral, ethical, as well as legal responsibility to preserve this ancient heritage for the future. Aren't we that much capable?